​   As a kid, if I needed the ‘next size’ ox yoke, it was as simple as climbing up the ladder to the hay mow and finding the right one. I probably took it for granted that my dad had a variety of yokes in working condition that I could use as I needed. But, why wouldn’t it seem natural, my friends had piles of yokes in their barns as well.
   And of course, “a person can never have too many yokes”. While visiting a friend many years ago, an ox man of the highest caliber, and likely one of the best ‘ox equipment’ men I ever had the pleasure of knowing, I got an education!
   Naturally, we first looked over and discussed the three pair of cattle that he was currently training and working. We then made our way into the old tie-up, past the ox sling and through the shop where he made his yokes and bows. We stepped down into the room where his very large personal inventory of yokes was kept. The room was full of yokes in working condition from calf size to 12”.
   I noticed a yoke with a twist in the beam. Note: On occasion, newly made yokes may twist along the length as the wood dries out. This is unavoidable, simply because wood moves as it wants as it ages. I said to my friend, “I see that yoke has a twist. That is frustrating after all the work that goes into building it. I usually cut them up and throw them into the wood stove.” His learned response, “No, don’t do that. Keep the yoke on hand. There may come a day when you have an ox that pulls low headed. Using the twisted yoke which will have one bow pitched forward will help bring that ox’s head up”.
   For the next hour we discussed neck seats, offset yokes, draft adjustment, and more. A priceless education from a master and confirmation that we can always improve our craft.
   I have been fortunate to have  received such educations over the years, and I am still learning.
   I did not begin building yokes in earnest until our daughters began training and exhibiting working cattle. Our four daughters all had teams of various sizes. We needed a lot of yokes. I did not set out to custom build yokes for sale. But, as time went on, I seemed to be in the business. And when you are raising a family, the extra money comes in handy.
   It is now thirty years since my wife and I began crafting ox yokes, and we have made and sold several hundred. Most of them were sold to cattle owners in the United States; however, we have shipped yokes to Canada, South America, Asia, Germany, Australia, and other foreign countries.
   I have taught the yoke making craft to 4-H members and families, to folks at Colonial Williamsburg, Sturbridge Village, Tillers International, The Remick Farm Museum, Sanborn Mills Farm, the New Hampshire Farm Museum, and more. And now, and maybe the most rewarding yet, I am coaching our oldest grandson as he builds a new yoke for one of his teams.
   We at New England Ox Supply would like to share what knowledge we can as it pertains to crafting an ox yoke. All of you working cattle owners and enthusiasts are potential yoke makers, even if you have not yet given it a try. If you are afraid to make a mistake, don’t be. Any mistake that you may make has been made by me and my contemporaries. I have cut, chopped up and burned many ‘mistakes’ in the wood stove. Yet, we set out to make more yokes and improve our craft.
   We will be posting a series of text and photographs which will walk you through the process. If at any point you have a question, we encourage you to call or email us. We will answer the question the best that we can.
   The first chapter of this yoke story will begin ‘in the woods’. Stay tuned.
              Best regards and good luck, Tim Huppe

Crafting an Ox Yoke
Article #1 - Choosing the Wood

    Throughout my writings I will refer to the woodlot inventory (trees) as ‘standing timber’. Once the tree has been felled and cross cut to desired lengths the term is ‘logs’. As the logs are being sawn on the mill, the side boards off the log is ‘lumber’. The net piece that will become the yoke blank is the ‘cant’. There are regional differences in terminology, however, I believe these terms are fairly consistent throughout the lumber industry.
  
     The first step in crafting an ox yoke is to identify the specie of tree for your project. I encourage you to put a lot of thought into this choice. You will put a great amount of effort into building the yoke and it will last for generations.

   Here is a list of species that I use in my yoke making:

#1. Sugar (Rock, Hard) Maple – Strong, dense, good availability. This specie is likely the first choice for teamsters doing heavy work and competitive pulling.

#2. Yellow Birch- Strength enhanced by its grain. Fair availability particularly in northern New England. This is definitely my “go to” specie. Strong enough for heavy work and competitive pulling, yet a good choice for all size yokes and manner of use.

#3. American Elm- Strength enhanced by its stringy grain. If you have ever tried splitting Elm for firewood you understand why it is so strong. Limited availability due to the Dutch Elm Disease. Elm (when dry) is lighter in weight than the first two species listed. Note: If you are searching for good quality Elm amongst standing timber, pay close attention to the tree tops. If they are showing signs of dead foliage and or dead limbs, don’t waste your time cutting it down for yoke stock. Most likely the pith of the tree is already beginning to rot.

#4. Black Birch- While not quite as strong as the species above, it is a good choice for all levels of work including heavy. Fair availability. Attractive wood grain.

#5. Red (soft) Maple- Good choice for moderate work-loads.  Good availability.

#6. Poplar- same as #5, however it is lighter weight when dry.

#7. Black Cherry- Adequate for light work. Good availability. Attractive wood color. Popular for ‘show’ yokes.

# 8. White and Grey Birch- same as #7

#9. Eastern White Pine-Adequate for very small calf yokes. Light in weight. 
  
   Please keep in mind that I live in the northeast and the species I listed are native to this region. For those of you living in other regions, other species are likely available for use. If you are looking for advice as to what species native to your area would be good for yoke building, reach out to a county forester, local logger, sawmill owner, or wood crafter for help.
  
   I have little experience with laminated yokes, but it is my opinion that they are a good choice for those that choose to go that route. More often than not, depending on what species of hardwood lumber are chosen, a laminated yoke will be stronger than that made from a single specie cant. And, it will be very attractive!
  
     Note: Following my steps for getting to the point of having a solid specie cant ready for yoke making, all steps thereafter will apply to both solid and laminated.
 
Ways to find good wood

    Choosing standing timber- If you own and manage a woodlot, or plan to purchase logs from a logger, there are a few basic guidelines that I like to follow.

1. If you are purchasing logs from a logger, you need to explain as thoroughly as possible the specifications desired. I assure you, they will greatly appreciate this discussion.
2. Ask the logger if you can join him for a scouting trip through the woodlot.
3. Trees growing on the edge of the woodlot, near a field or the road, can be subject to damage from heavy winds. One type of damage is shake, which is a lengthwise crack or separation of wood between the growth rings. Shake can also occur during felling. Another type of damage can be created when limbs are broken off by the wind or ice. Often times insects and disease injure the trees, particularly when the break is close to the main stem of the tree. Choosing a tree that is growing deeper into the woodlot greatly reduces the likelihood of such defects.
4. Approaching a possible candidate, look up! If the top of the tree is dead, move on to another. If there are any large cracks at the crotch of the tree, be sure they are well above the portion of the tree that you plan to use.
5. Keep on the lookout for tree damage caused by lightning strikes. Quite common, particularly in the taller trees.
6. Look for a tree that has few or no limbs for several feet above the ground.
7. The logger will most times ask me what lengths I need the logs to be. Keep in mind; we are searching for logs as defect free as possible. Most often I will ask for 10’ and 12’ logs. In my region, the butt log (first log above the stump), and the second log up are the best quality for yoke making. On occasion, three logs may be of good quality. At times there may only be an 8’ butt log suitable for your project.

   Note: Please keep in mind that there is no guarantee as to what defects could actually exist under the bark layer. There is a far greater chance that the wood quality will be good in a log with few or no exterior defects. And while on this subject, please don’t assume that a twelve-foot log will net you two 6’ cants. I will discuss this in greater detail in the next segment.

1. Once the tree has been felled, you will immediately know if the pith (center) of the tree is sound. If the pith is rotten at the butt of the tree, cut 4’ off the butt and see if the next log up is going to be sound. If not yet sound, cut another 4’ off, and so on. But, be fair to the logger and remember that you bought all of the potential ‘log wood’. Those 4 footers are of no use to him.

 
Once the logs have been brought to the landing, they now must be trucked to a mill. I often use my 14’ landscape trailer to haul the logs. Loggers generally have yard log loaders or log trucks available on the landing if you communicate with them in advance.
​
   Most often, you will be paying fair market price for the logs. Loggers know their markets and will treat you fairly. They will scale the logs likely using the International Rule. They will charge you a per thousand board foot price, the same method sawmills use to pay them for their logs. Example: A log with 80 board feet @ $500.00/thousand board feet would cost you $40.00 or 50 cents per board foot.
 
   In the next segment I will discuss;
#1. What to look for and where best to find timber for single-yoke stock.
#2. Buying yoke stock from a log concentration yard.
#3. Storing logs

Crafting an Ox Yoke - Article #2
What to look for and where best to find timber for single-yoke stock
Buying yoke stock from a log concentration yard
Storing logs

What to look for and where to find timber for single-yoke stock
 
   I often tell folks that in the early days of my yoke making, I may have made one single yoke for every twenty doubles. That ratio is now more like one single for every three doubles. That will be a great topic for another time, but we know times are changing.
   Finding stock for single yokes often requires more time and scouting than that of a double. In respect to strength and integrity of wood grain, the best candidate for the single yoke is a naturally curved piece of timber. And, the best piece in the tree is the section of growth in the first 6’ from the base of the tree. This section will have the greatest girth, less stress from wind and ice load, and normally less damage from insects and disease.
   Historically, many farmers and ‘professional’ yoke makers, had a method of ensuring that they would have a steady supply of single yoke stock. They would cruise their woodlot in search of yellow birch, black birch, hard maple, or elm saplings of good quality, with a stem diameter of approximately 2”. They would then tie one end of a rope high in the tree and pull on the top until the tree was bent over far to the side, always careful not to hurt the stem of the tree. The free end of the rope would be tied securely to the base of another tree. The ropes were likely treated with some sort of rodent deterrent, much like the ropes once used on ships. And, on occasion, light chains were used to tie off the trees.
    Once the trees had grown to a diameter large enough for the carving out of a single yoke, the curved section was harvested. The ‘curved section’ was cut several inches longer on each end than the net amount needed for a yoke. The yoke maker knew that the piece would ‘end check’ while drying.
   To store the yoke stock, the maker would most often bury the piece under a pile of loose hay in the barn haymow or loft. The bark was left on the piece so that the moisture in the wood exited through the end cuts. The hay reduced the amount of air getting to the piece, thus minimizing the amount of checking due to seasoning. And, being stored in a dry environment, insured that the stock would not be damaged due to trapped moisture, which causes staining and decay of the wood.
   These well thought out processes are from a time when individuals had future generations in mind. A farmer’s thinking was; “I may never live long enough for that ‘forced curve’ piece be big enough for me to use, but, my son will have it”.
   Finding ‘curved’ timber in the forest today requires a bit of scouting. On occasion, hardwood trees will sustain an injury either mechanically or from disease that will cause a curvature. If I see such a ‘single yoke candidate’, I will either harvest it then or flag the tree to be used later.
   I have good success finding curved timber growing just inside the wood line bordering open fields. In my part of New England, it is common for species such as Black Birch, Black Cherry, and on occasion, Apple, to grow in these areas. As they grow, the tree tops will lean outward towards the field seeking the sunlight. This will cause them to grow with a curve. Be aware; if you cut one of these trees, make sure that it wasn’t part of the fence line. Chainsaws and sawmills don’t cut through wire very well.
 
Purchasing ‘potential yoke’ logs from a concentration yard

   I have been buying good quality hardwood logs from local concentration yards for a number of years with good results. Here are some tips from my experiences.

1. Always keep in mind that it is the business of the log yards to purchase logs in large quantities and to sell them in the same fashion. However, it has been my experience that they will do their best to help out a local craftsman. In fact, they find it interesting with what I plan to do with the logs. And, it often times brings out stories of their ancestors who worked draft animals. Take time to build a rapport with this supplier.
2. There is a strong possibility that the representative of the company you are dealing with will need clear specifications in regards to the log quality you seek. For my needs I mostly buy Black Birch and Yellow Birch, and on occasion Hard Maple. I want three clear sides, small heart wood if possible, and no sign of center rot on the ends of the log. Be aware of bark seams on the end or the outside edge of the log. They can run deep. Keep an eye out for possible lightning strikes on the log, as this can create shake (a separation of the growth rings). I most often buy 8’, 10’, and 12’ logs. I avoid 14’ and 16’ only because there may exist a sweep in the log which can make it more difficult for the sawyer to saw out the cant size that I need. And, I require a minimum of 10” diameter on the small end.
3. Here in New England, the best quality Yellow Birch grows in the northern counties of New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont. It is mostly due to the short growing season. The growth rings will be narrow and of higher integrity. And, whenever possible, I will purchase winter cut logs. That is when the sap content is lower than other times of the year. I see less checking in this wood.
4. As is the case in most concentration yards, the logs are stored in large piles. Occasionally they are separated by species, but is also common for the species to be mixed. This makes it important for good communication as to when you would like to pick up the logs. I have the agreement with my suppliers that I will call them well in advance and tell them approximately how many logs that I am looking to purchase. I normally buy six or seven at a time. They will set out a dozen to sixteen logs for me based on the specs we discussed. From those I will choose what I need. They mark the end with paint, scale the logs, and the yard loader operator sets them on my trailer.
5. I will not spend much time on the discussion of pricing. The value of logs is an ever changing market. But, for the last several years, I have been paying between $450.00 and $600.00 per thousand board feet.

 
A few bits of information on buying logs directly from a logger
 
   I am fortunate to have several family members and friends that are professional loggers and they represent a large part of my supply.
   As is the case with the log yard personnel, it is important to clearly explain the specs to the logger.
   Often times, the logger has cruised the woodlot before beginning the harvest. They will have a pretty good idea of what inventory may fit your needs.
   What I pay for logs on the landing is lower than at the log yard. The logger has not had to pay a trucker, and the concentration yard’s profit margin is not a factor.
   Arrange a time to pick up the logs, and be there on time. The logger needs to get back to their work.
 
   Please keep in mind there are no guarantees that the log will net the piece of yoke stock that you seek. Logs are graded on exterior appearance and on occasion may have a hidden defect.
 
Storing logs
 
   This a very important step. A great deal on coordination, effort, and money has been invested to this point. These are storage practices that I follow.

1. Lay down bearings on the ground perpendicular to the direction that the logs will lay. The logs should be stored a minimum of 6” off the ground. This will prevent damage from ground moisture and keep them clean. Again, sawmill blades don’t like dirt! It also makes it much easier to pick up the logs with a set of forks.
2. If possible, store them in a shady spot. Keeping them out of direct sunlight will slow up the checking on the ends.
3. Maple, Elm, and Cherry can be stored for more than a year without too much damage from stain and early decay. The bark layer on the Birches holds the moisture in, thus speeding up the decaying process. I make a point to not store these logs for any more than six months more or less.
4. I have experimented with painting the ends of the logs with a commercial wax to slow the drying. I found that for my needs’ it was not particularly advantageous. I mark the receiving date on the end of the logs with a lumber crayon and keep the rotation of logs organized.

 
   In the next segment I will discuss;

1. Sawing the log into a cant.
2. Layout of the yoke.
3. Drilling and rough cutting the shape of the yoke